Avalon Cycles

Resources » Service Tips

Bottom Bracket

Bottom bracket issues can sneak up on you. You have to inspect – and have a very good ear. Sometimes, you can hear a squeak, creak or something that just doesn’t sound right when you pedal down hard. Most of the time, you can pin point this issue using the following simple test:

• »  flip the bike upside down resting on seat and bars
• »  grab the pedals in the position where the pedals and cranks are parallel with the ground
• »  work the pedals and cranks in opposite directions and see if any play exists
• »  if you detect play, get the bike to the shop immediately to avoid unrepairable damage

Cable Care

Properly functioning cable housings are essential to proper shifting and braking. Servicing cables, however, is a mid to advanced skill that not everyone can perform at home. The best thing you can do is look for cracks or breaks. If you see any, get them repaired immediately. You don’t want to snap it the trail or the road, so fix it now. Also, be sure to get your housings re-greased often. When very dirty, replace all cable housings. These steps will keep your ride shifting and breaking like new.

Chain Cleaning

A clean chain can mean the difference between a smooth shifting bike and one that squeaks and gets jammed up. Chain care is one of the simplest maintenance items to practice at home. Here’s how:

• »  for mountain riders, clean and inspect your chain after every ride
• »  for road riders, clean and inspect your chain often
• »  use a rag and wipe the chain down hard three or four times in one location
• »  give the cranks a spin, and repeat in the next available section
• »  once clean, re-oil the chain
• »  Pedro’s makes all type of chain lubes. Choose the one that is right for you type of riding
• »  with the biked propped up, spin the cranks backwards and apply chain lube to the chain in an accessible location of your choice. Spin the cranks repeated while keeping a continuous pour of lube. Make sure to lube both sides of the chain.
• »  once complete, wipe the chain down hard with a rag again as in step three. Excess lube attracts dirt. You don’t want the chain too wet, but you don’t want it too dry either.

Chain and Cassette Maintenance

Believe it or not, metal wears. If you ride your bike often, chances are you will be replacing your chain and cassette possibly twice a year or more. When you replace one, even if the other is not bad, you must replace both. This is because these parts wear and “burn in” together. Meaning they wear evenly. Changing one without the other means a mismatch of wear patterns resulting in poor shifting performance.

Derailleur Adjustment

Adjusting derailleurs can be tricky and it is recommended that the novice and mid-level do-it-yourselfers bring the bike on into the shop to avoid damage or even poorer performance that from the start.

In the case of the rear derailleur, you can sometime adjust most shifting problems with a twist of the barrel adjuster. Prop the bike up and get behind the rear wheel. Take a look at the derailleur alignment in regards to the chain and cassette. The derailleur and chain SHOULD NOT be perfectly aligned with the cassette. Instead, the derailleur should be slightly offset, cheating towards the ground more than the center. If it is not, give the rear barrels adjuster a twist to adjust. If this does not solve your challenge, bring the bike into the shop to have a pro take a look. Most shops only charge between $10.0 - $20.00 for derailleur tune ups.

Headset

The headset can be checked with a very quick and simple test.

• »  while standing over the bike, gab the front brake to lock up the tire
• »  press the bike down into the ground and rock it forward like you are trying to break the hold of the break
• »  if you feel play in the head, the headset needs to be tightened up

Headsets can be tricky to tweak and your bike could be set up with one of numerous designs. If you feel play in the head, bring the bike into a professional shop for adjustment before permanent damage occurs to you through a wreck, or to your bike through neglect.

Seat Position

To find the right seat height position you need to sit on your bike with your feet on the pedals. Position one pedal at the very bottom of it's stroke. Your seat height should be adjusted so that in this position your knee is bent at around a 25 to 30 degree angle. It's that simple.

It is important to note that this applies to pedaling situations only. There are a lot of situations on a mountain bike that you should have a lower seat position for safety as well as improved agility.

Try a seat post quick release so you can adjust your seat height according to the riding conditions. It is helpful to mark the seat post where it enters the frame at the positions you like to use for quicker adjustment.

Tire Pressure

It's normal for most tires to lose up to 10 pounds per square inch (psi) per week. This does not mean you have a slow leak. Look on the tire's sidewall for tire pressure recommendations. Don't exceed the maximum tire pressure listed. Inflate your mountain bike's tires to 40 psi for dirt riding. You may wish to inflate your tires to 50 to 60 psi for city riding. Inflate your road bike's tires to 100 psi for road riding. Some road tires have much higher psi ratings. However, 100 psi will provide a good mix of performance and comfort. STEP 6: Inflate your hybrid bike's tires to 60 to 70 psi for city riding. Check your tire pressure before every ride.

Washing

Keeping your bike clean is a good practice, but too much water can be detrimental to the proper operation of a well-tuned road or mountain bike. If the bike needs to be washed, feel free to do so. Try to refrain from holding the hose on one section for too long. However, your goal is to spray off dirt, not essential lubricants and greases the bike needs to operate properly. Your best bet is to spray the bike down with a light stream and wipe it clean with rags. Either way, be sure to wipe the bike down when complete.